Go Wild! Travel Exclusive: Elephant watering holes and graveyards in Kenya
Photo courtesy of Elena Bridgers
All other photos by Jillian Weislo
I didn't sleep that first night at Mpala. I was too scared of getting trampled on by a herd of elephants. We were camping smack in the middle of their stomping grounds. Sure we had someone stay up all night and keep a fire going to keep them away. But two words kept coming into mind: what if?
Our main focus here at this Kenyan preserve was to observe Grevy's zebra behavior, but I really learned the most on the game drives in between. Our first drive led us to a watering hole that happened to be occupied by a family of elephants. Our guide warned us not to get too close because elephants tend to be very territorial. He was right.
We were all enjoying the view and taking pictures when all of the sudden, one of the bulls started speed walking around the watering hole towards us. Normally, elephants are slow moving animals. When they start to walk a little faster than normal, you know its trouble. We hustled back into the truck and waited. I thought we were going to speed away, but according to our guide, it's best to sit still in the car.
A family gathers at the water hole.
Another "what if" came into my head. All I could think about was this massive bull elephant flipping our truck over with one quick push of his trunk. We got lucky. A pack of African wild dogs came through, which believe it or not, usually scare off elephants. The herd moved on and with a sigh of relief we did as well.
From living elephants to one that had been dead for weeks, we were able to experience it all. At first we followed the vultures, but as we got closer all we had to do was follow our noses. It was one of the most unbearable smells I've ever had to endure. Imagine what anything smells like after it has been dead for weeks and baking in the African sun, let alone an elephant which weighs around 11,000 pounds. Kenya Wildlife Services (KWS) had shot the elephant because it had a broken leg and then invited the Turkana, a native tribe, to take the meat. The trunk was cut off by KWS so that they could get the tusks out. By removing the tusks, KWS keeps the ivory out of the hands of poachers.
The Turkana took the meat they wanted and left the rest for the vultures.
Next we went on an optional paleontology trip with a former Rutgers student who was studying a local tribe. On the way back we were able to meet members of the Maasai/Samburu tribe. I couldn't believe that anyone could live in such harsh conditions. We drove 45 minutes through desert and vacant ground with no plants except for a few prickly shrubs. They offered us a tour through their huts, which were definitely more spacious than I expected from seeing the outside. The inside consisted of a kitchen, which was just two small bricks used as stools and a fire, two bedrooms, and a small spare room.
A grandmother with her two grandchildren.
The Maasai/Samburu, being so secluded, spoke no English as opposed to people in the cities who were fluent in English. Our guide taught us a few words in their dialect so we didn't seem rude and they were very friendly considering a group of white westerners were taking tours through their houses.
The children were completely captivated by our digital cameras. Each time we took a picture they'd put on their biggest smile and then hurry over to look at playback on the camera. It was probably the first time any of them had seen themselves - a memorable moment for all of us.
We left Mpala and drove to Mugie Ranch. We set up camp inside an electric fence used to keep rhino and elephants out. Leaving the fenced in area was strictly prohibited unless an armed guard was with you - and for good reason! The "king of the jungle" awaited.
Stay tuned for the next exclusive when I get up close and personal with one of Africa's greatest predators.
Our main focus here at this Kenyan preserve was to observe Grevy's zebra behavior, but I really learned the most on the game drives in between. Our first drive led us to a watering hole that happened to be occupied by a family of elephants. Our guide warned us not to get too close because elephants tend to be very territorial. He was right.
Mpala Ranch.
A family gathers at the water hole.
Another "what if" came into my head. All I could think about was this massive bull elephant flipping our truck over with one quick push of his trunk. We got lucky. A pack of African wild dogs came through, which believe it or not, usually scare off elephants. The herd moved on and with a sigh of relief we did as well.
From living elephants to one that had been dead for weeks, we were able to experience it all. At first we followed the vultures, but as we got closer all we had to do was follow our noses. It was one of the most unbearable smells I've ever had to endure. Imagine what anything smells like after it has been dead for weeks and baking in the African sun, let alone an elephant which weighs around 11,000 pounds. Kenya Wildlife Services (KWS) had shot the elephant because it had a broken leg and then invited the Turkana, a native tribe, to take the meat. The trunk was cut off by KWS so that they could get the tusks out. By removing the tusks, KWS keeps the ivory out of the hands of poachers.
The Turkana took the meat they wanted and left the rest for the vultures.
Next we went on an optional paleontology trip with a former Rutgers student who was studying a local tribe. On the way back we were able to meet members of the Maasai/Samburu tribe. I couldn't believe that anyone could live in such harsh conditions. We drove 45 minutes through desert and vacant ground with no plants except for a few prickly shrubs. They offered us a tour through their huts, which were definitely more spacious than I expected from seeing the outside. The inside consisted of a kitchen, which was just two small bricks used as stools and a fire, two bedrooms, and a small spare room.
A grandmother with her two grandchildren.
The Maasai/Samburu, being so secluded, spoke no English as opposed to people in the cities who were fluent in English. Our guide taught us a few words in their dialect so we didn't seem rude and they were very friendly considering a group of white westerners were taking tours through their houses.
The children were completely captivated by our digital cameras. Each time we took a picture they'd put on their biggest smile and then hurry over to look at playback on the camera. It was probably the first time any of them had seen themselves - a memorable moment for all of us.
We left Mpala and drove to Mugie Ranch. We set up camp inside an electric fence used to keep rhino and elephants out. Leaving the fenced in area was strictly prohibited unless an armed guard was with you - and for good reason! The "king of the jungle" awaited.
Stay tuned for the next exclusive when I get up close and personal with one of Africa's greatest predators.
Posted by WILDNEWJERSEY at 10/21/2010 6:00 AM 
Categories: Go Wild! Travel Exclusive
Tags: kenya grevy's zebra mugie ranch elephants lions maasai kenya wildlife services mpala samburu turkana
Categories: Go Wild! Travel Exclusive
Tags: kenya grevy's zebra mugie ranch elephants lions maasai kenya wildlife services mpala samburu turkana
Comments